Americans in Paris

Sosie emerges from trip

We asked Sosie for a report on last week's visit to Paris. What was the most and best of it? And keep it brief. The photos were taken on Sosie's Iphone. Click to enlarge them.

Our visit to Paris still blurs across my movie theatre forehead.  So much, so I'll start with the practicals.  Last time we stayed in an intellectual area, triangulated among the Sorbonne, the American writers' cafes, and the Luxembourg gardens. We could walk easily to the Louvre, Notre Dame, etc, etc.  This time we stayed in a pithier area, the Montmartre, near the Moulin Rouge and other Toulouse-Lautrec subjects ('I paint things as they are.  I don't comment," he said), the erotica of Pigalle street, the scenes of 1940s French gangster movies, a vineyard, and the home of the Surrealist movement, all downhill from Sacre Couer (Sacred Heart of Christ church).  This time we took the underground Metro every day.  (see the picture of the Metropolitan station--see why we'd like to upgrade our bus station BBQ shelter to a metro look?  sigh.......)

Nice backyard addition

OK, now the most-ests, starting with the Goofiest.  At Versailles, the pop-art Murakami exhibit (http://www.smh.com.au/travel/travel-news/japanese-manga-controversy-hits-versailles-20100914-159xv.html) looked wacky amid the Louis XIV decor. Sometimes mixing stuff from various genres or ages works, sometimes not, or should I be more like Toulouse-Lautrec and let each beholder decide?

Best Museum:  The Carnavalet, an enchanting display of the history of Paris in two 17th-century mansions connected by an upper hallway through the school between them.  Beautifully done, not stodgy, and free!  But I felt chagrined at my stupidity, the confusion of centuries, the vagueness of my understanding of the French Revolution in relation to the American, the Ben Franklin and Tom Jefferson visits. In one room, I was so overwhelmed by what I did not know that I stole a look at the guard, thinking he must know what I barbarian I am.  He was picking his nose.  Deeply.

Goofiest

Most Endearing:  Listening to a full orchestra and choir perform Brahm's Requiem in the Chartres Cathedral.

Most Mystical: Although I will never live in one, I am drawn to cemeteries, and such a cemetery as Montmartre, I have never see in any country. So many souls crammed into artful places under a city bridge, attended by well-fed cats. The little phone-booth sized family chapels had black streaks inside where candles had burned over the centuries.  haha, I wonder if the spirits from so many centuries chat amongst themselves, and if they laughed at the tourist who paced back and forth looking for Degas' tomb, not noticing his tomb marked "de GAS" until she finally saw the bas relief of his familiar profile, complete with hat.  Uffda!

Best Surprise:  It was open garden week in Paris, so we could see some gardens not often available, such as the Princess Diana garden dedicated to her by the city after the accident.  The mansion gardens are typically formal, but the Diana garden is within the courtyard of a school and serves to teach children about growing food amongst flowers and greenery.

Highest Inspiration: It could be the 609-foot-high views from the rooftop deck Montparnasse Tower, but instead, I rate the Sunday open market for still holding a top billing in my mental movie theatre.  Glorious food brought into the city... breads, roasting chestnuts, cheeses, shiny jars of preserves and honey, fresh fish, all so lovely, but more than those, the vegetables were ABsolutely EXquisite and have me sorting seeds and planning my winter garden in triple-digit California heat.

There's much more, and more we missed, but I've got a garden to grow so I can cut my harvest with the folding French farmer's knife I got at the neighborhood grocery store, certain to be a most useful souvenir.

Solveig